Ever since chef Pasi Petanen opened the original Cafe Paci pop-up in Darlinghurst in 2013, he’s been making diners pause, take another bite and wonder exactly what’s going on.

Here, carrots aren’t just carrots – they’re spun into sorbet and served with licorice cake and an enchanting aerated yoghurt. They’re also fermented, sliced into discs and layered on a shard of ’nduja-topped rye. It’s clever, imaginative and immensely delicious.

Same goes for the soft and cuddly potato and molasses bread, plus a thrilling drinks list stacked with progressive natural-wine producers and sake makers, as complementary to the food as the charming service is.

A fit-out that includes sensual curves, a handsome bar and a ceiling recalling shag carpet adds up to one of Sydney’s most electrifying restaurants. Nigella Lawson is right – no visit to Sydney would be complete without dining here.